Since their triumph against the capitalists in 1975, Vietnam has long held an unfavorable image by much of the world. Western movies made about this rural country held titles like Platoon, Full Metal Jacket and – to make matters worse – Hamburger Hill. But a recent flood of tourism into Vietnam has resulted in a rapid transformation of its image. Tales of exotic hill tribes and photos of spectacular countryside have turned Vietnam into one of the foremost travel destinations in Southeast Asia.
The warm nature of the Vietnamese is quite a surprise to most travelers – especially when considering the many wars the Vietnamese experienced in the last 50 years – the “French War” (early 50′s), the “American War” (60′s – 70′s), the “Chinese War” (late 70′s) and the “Cambodian War” (early 80′s). The recent capitalist revolution has left the Vietnamese with another reason to be interested in meeting foreigners – money! But travel in Vietnam offers more than just a chance to see the beautiful sights and experience Vietnamese culture. It also has the potential for exciting, adventure travel. After recent excursions into Vietnam by rock climbers, sea kayakers, surfers, cyclists and trekkers, Vietnam is emerging as the new, untapped adventure travel destination in Asia.
Rock Climbing:
Recent years have shown a skyrocketing increase in the popularity of Asia as a sport- climbing destination. Krabi, Thailand was the first and most popular destination, enticing climbers from all over the world with photos of towering orange and yellow-streaked limestone cliffs. Now Vietnam has joined the climbing crowd, offering spectacular Halong Bay, set in the crystal-clear, emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin. With its myriad limestone-studded spires, Halong Bay appears to be similar to Krabi…but the resemblance ends there. While Krabi is a sport-climbers paradise, Halong Bay should be considered an adventure-climbing destination. Over three thousand islands spread out across three thousand eight hundred eighty square kilometers of sea comprise this Vietnamese national treasure. 2 years ago, a group of North Americans led by Todd Skinner and Scott Milton set about putting up routes in the bay. They rented a junk for 3 months to transport themselves through the endless maze of limestone. Though their trip was a success, access to their topographic maps is not readily available and many of the routes they created are extremely difficult. Nonetheless, Halong Bay’s “sea of dragons” offers limitless first-ascent potential to experienced, motivated climbers of any ability.
Climbers going to Halong Bay should come prepared with several necessities. If you have a rock drill, bring it. You should also bring a standard gear rack, as many routes can be protected traditionally. The best climbing season is from October to February. Renting junks can be relatively expensive in Vietnam, so it is recommended that anyone planning a climbing trip go with a group of five to ten people. Be wary when bargaining with the Vietnamese. If they can get an extra half-cent, they will. And be sure that if you’re climbing, someone is watching your belongings; because your attentions are sure to be occupied with the spectacular surroundings.
Sea Kayaking:
As recently as 1994, traveling by kayak along the coast of Vietnam – including Halong Bay – was not allowed by authorities. One small group that tried was repeatedly hassled by police, and eventually arrested. But this very group, having fallen in love with Halong Bay on that same trip, returned to Vietnam in 1996 to lead the first guided sea- kayak tour of Halong Bay. At the end of their groundbreaking trip, the leaders felt they had discovered “one of Asia’s ultimate kayaking destinations.”
A sea kayak trip in Halong Bay offers something for everyone. For those looking to get a workout, there are 3880 sq. km of bay in which to paddle. Some of the main channels have very strong, wind-generated currents that require a reasonable level of fitness to subdue. Those looking for solitude will most certainly find it. There are innumerable small beaches, lagoons, grottos, and caves isolated within the maze-like Halong Bay. If willing to venture far enough, anyone can find their own “private island.” And those looking for a good meal will have it three times-a-day. Local fisher folk approach in their small boats daily, selling their fresh catches – anything from shrimp to sea bass. A well-organized sea-kayak tour is recommended. There are some permits that must be acquired. And a Vietnamese-speaking support crew is a must. Not only will they help negotiate with fisherman for cheap seafood prices, but they will cook up the food as well! The American-based agency Mountain Travel – Sobek is the best-known agency for guided sea kayak trips. They currently offer six trips per year. For those interested in a more leisurely tour of Halong Bay, cheap boat cruises can be arranged at any of the many travel agencies in Hanoi.
Surfing:
Everyone is familiar with the classic surfing scene from Apocalypse Now in which Colonel Kilgore proclaims his now famous line, “Charley don’t surf!” Anyone who has surfed in Vietnam recently would certainly disagree with that statement. Surfing, like other action sports, has taken off in Vietnam. However, unlike the other sports mentioned in this article, surfing in Vietnam started as early as the mid-60′s when American GI’s stationed in Da Nang first realized its potential. During certain times of the year – the Philippine typhoon season especially – one particular section of the beach at Da Nang sported fantastic waves. Nun Nuoc beach, perhaps better known as China Beach was this famous spot. Today little has changed – with the exception of a few Vietnamese professionals now seen practicing on their makeshift boards.
1994 saw the first ever internationally sanctioned professional surfing competition held in Vietnam. The Saigon Floating Hotel Surf Pro was held at China Beach, its US$60,000 prize money drawing top professionals from all over the world. Few of the surfers had ever set foot in Vietnam before. None were disappointed. A distant Philippine typhoon helped to create great waves ranging from fast 4-footers to superb 10 foot tubes. Vietnam is bound to become a world class surfing destination. With 3000km of coastline, most of which is not yet explored, an intrepid surfer should have no trouble finding their own secret spot to share with friends. Australia based Wetside News described Vietnam’s surfing potential, “When word gets out, surfers are going to swim to this place.”
Vietnam still holds a great deal of potential for those who seek adventure on stable ground. In the North, on the border with China, lies a small town called Sapa. Sapa is nestled among Vietnam’s tallest peaks, which rise above 3000m. It is surrounded by countless small villages housing many of Vietnam’s ethnic hill tribes – two of the most famous being the Black Hmong, and the Red Dzao. These friendly people welcome trekkers to hike through their villages, admiring the spectacular mountain scenery on the way. Cycling tours can also be arranged through agencies such as Sydney-based World Expeditions. These can be any distance, usually depending on the fitness of the group. Whatever Vietnam’s future holds, it’s clear that they plan on leaving their Hollywood “War” image behind, creating instead one based on the true beauty and excitement that the Vietnamese and their country encompass.
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